Do nothing

Nature is knocking at the door

Born out of a lack of time, too much land and aspects of weather, I don't always get outside when I need to. Some weeks, months or even years later, I return to particular  locations, and find an overgrown jungle. In the past, this frustrated me. Only because of the thought of having to pull it all out, and starting again.

The catch 22

What I'm about to write about our property, is a potentially controversial subject. It's a species of tree which showed up, on the edge of our front verge. Which is not uncommon, for this particular tree. As it has a weed status in Queensland, and is known for populating waterways and roadways.

Front slope

It went unnoticed for a while, but after conducting research into permaculture, support species trees, I discovered the tree growing near our front verge, was indeed, Leucaena leucocephala. It's appreciated in permaculture circles for it's nitrogen fixing qualities, quick growth and hardiness. Which makes it perfect for chop and drop material. It also doubles as fodder for ruminants.

Being listed as one of the most invasive species, in the world, it's therefore a controversial plant to have growing on one's property. I've been watching it's capacity to spread, and can vouch for said reputation. Yet, for our property at least, it's become a valuable resource too. Because it can live off our rainfall, without additional water, and provide an endless supply of carbon to utilise.

What's more, where the original tree grew, prevents soil erosion. THE number one reason, it was allowed to stay in place.

 16 December 2010

~ lead up to January floods, 2011

Run-off from our neighbour's driveway (see the top of the picture, above) crosses the street, in torrential downpours. It subsequently, runs down our front slope. The roots of the leucaena tree, however, helps keep the soil in place. The thicket of saplings which have sprung up, near the original tree (as a result) also act, to slow the flow of water, down the slope.

 New saplings emerging under older ones

Invasive? Yes. Absolutely But it's nonetheless, doing it's job, where no other native has managed to occupy that space, as well. We have acacias (black wattle) growing on the slope too, but they die quickly, and tend to get knocked over, after the wet and windy weather, arrives.

So as much as I'd love to support native species, they're not performing in that particular location, to prevent land from eroding downhill.

 Dying, black wattle ~ fell over in wind, 2016

Let's be clear, my job as land steward on slopes, is to keep my land in place. It's just as environmentally destructive, to ignore soil erosion, entering waterways. I'm in a catch 22 situation. Well, I would be, if I didn't have a third option.

If leucaena was to stay (as I decided they would) to benefit my land, I had to keep it's spread under control. I would be as industrious with this tree, as it was industrious, in it's production. Leucaena would deplete, before I ran out of uses!

 Cover the bare soil

The number one reason it's so useful, is for rapidly producing, chop and drop material. I use it to regularly mulch my fruit trees. The foliage is high in nitrogen, and the thicker branches, take several years to break down.

My mandarin tree (presently in fruit) got the royal treatment, recently too.

 Lovely, thick layer of mulch ~

produced from our landscape

It got a bunch of pulled grass, weeds and pumpkin vines, followed by the luecana foliage. Large branches first, followed by the finer, foliage on top.

This will serve a good year or two, but more than likely, I will add more mulch, when it's in plentiful supply.

 Same slope

Another use for the leucaena, is attempting to establish other natives on the same slope. Above, is a Grevillea She-oak sapling, and further back (barely noticeable) is a flowering ironbark.

Being a north-facing slope, it cops a lot of sun, all year round! Consequently, it has dry, depleted soils. The wattle branches I put around it several seasons ago, has since broken down - mostly. It was time for a new mulching treatment.

Support structure, in place

Only this time, I cut the leucaena into pegs, hammered them into the ground, and placed the rest of the branches and trunks, as a kind of retaining wall. It's all biodegradable, so designed to be absorbed into the soil, over time.

Yet it will adequately serve it's purpose, of retaining the rest of the mulch, laid on top...

Ready for another season, or two

As with the fruit trees, I like to lay the larger branches in contact with the soil, first, followed by the finer leafs and twigs, last of all. It shades the soil, retains moisture and helps this tree-grevillea, establish a little better.

My goal is to plant out the slope with non-invasive plants, to eventually make the leucaena redundant. For the moment however, it's hardiness and ability to produce carbon for our soils, on minimal rainfall, is imperative.

Trusty tools

The wood is very easy to work with, I only need a few manual tools: a large axe, a hatchet, pruning saw and hand pruners. The hatchet, aids in carving the pegs, to make them easier to hammer into the ground. The rest, help break-up the various thicknesses of branches and trunks.

Cut low to the ground

I am coppicing these, so they may well grow back with new foliage, to chop, at a later date. That's the goal of keeping them, anyway. To get as much free mulch as I can, to feed the plants I want to grow - eventually making leucaena, redundant. At least in this area.

If I get goats (on the wish list) I would deliberately cultivate these as food. The goal of course, is to continually harvest the foliage, so it doesn't get a chance to set seed.

Separated into branches, twigs and foliage

While leucaena may be a controversial tree species, I have to credit them for filling a gaping hole, on our property (literally) being the capacity to reduce soil erosion. I know there are those with an aversion to exotic plants, especially ones with a reputation for spreading. Normally, I would agree. On paper, I would agree.

Out here, in the field however, when choosing between watching your land roll down the hill, or working with a species that retains it - the answer is simple. I choose to keep my land. As you can see (above) I like to be ruthless with leucaena anyway. So it's high productivity, suits my quest for acquiring plentiful, soil improvements.

If leucaena shows up on your property, my advice is to use it (animal fodder, mulch, and preventing soil erosion) otherwise, remove it completely. Because what good is it to your land, if it takes over? And it will, if left unchecked. It's just one of those plants, which are really good, at self-replication.

Mulching land

Buying mulch gets expensive to cover acreage, but it's also, somewhat unnecessary. As land can grow plenty of plants to substitute for mulch. It's the only way we've been able to build soil and protect it from drying out - by growing our own mulch.

Of course, it's not always easy to do, if you live in extremes like we do. So I recommend starting with some hardy plants, which will continue growing through extremes.

I'll share the ones I grow here soon, but first, a trip down memory lane...

Winter 2014

Three years ago, I shared a proposal for a Landscape Rework, we intended to pursue. The picture above, shows just how emancipated this landscape was. We built a swale to hold water, and divert it away from the house, lower down the slope. Unfortunately, rain was only sporadic.

Without water most of the time, we had problems growing vegetation in this area. It was on both clay and sandstone, with very little topsoil.

 Winter 2014

And  where we intended planting a row of native trees, along the walkway, there was a drop off, down hill. So retaining water, was going to be a challenge. It all had to come from the swale, and what moisture we could keep on the flat land, as long as possible.

So perhaps it was a tad ambitious to consider what we wanted to develop it into...

Winter 2014 - swale (right) walkway (left)

Did I mention this is also a north facing slope (south facing, for the Northern Hemisphere)? Crappy soil, little rainfall, and also receives sun, year round.

This has been the most challenging aspect of our land to develop. I've killed a lot of plants in this area, learning what would work, and what wouldn't. By the way, those pear trees have to go. I learned they're not flowering, because they're not getting enough chill hours. I'll try relocating them, down a shady, winter, gully.

Three years later though, this is what that same landscape, looks like...

 Winter 2017

What is growing here, is designed to survive these sorts of conditions. So plant selection was key. Secondarily, most of these plants growing, were designed as chop and drop, mulching material. I had to out-number the trees I wanted to establish 3:1, with mulching plants.

I still don't have enough mulching plants in this area, which is why I only have one tree which managed to survive...

Winter 2017 - Tuckeroo, front (right)

Also known as, Cupaniopsis anacardioides, the Tuckeroo is simply an amazing tree! Not only are it's fruits beneficial to local birds, but it hosts many butterflies and caterpillars as well.

Tuckeroo, is grown as a street tree and car-park landscaping plant, in urban areas, because it seems to cope with extremes. It can grow in clay too, which is why it hasn't died here. Unlike the native acacia trees I planted, which I thought would do well, but melted the first season.

Winter 2017

I've cut back the Lemon Grass (front, right) and Old-man Saltbush (front, left), and mulched the walkway with their leaves. This benefits the Tuckeroo tree, as it's protecting the soil from drying out, plus feeds it too. As it breaks down, it will help create more topsoil.

I've been doing this for three growing seasons now, but I don't nearly have enough mulching plants in this area yet. I'm working on it, through propagating more plants.

Winter 2017 - before the Lemon Grass (rear) was trimmed

In the foreground, is another Lemon Grass, which isn't doing nearly as well as the one, in the background. It's still alive, but I may need to add some additional inputs to resuscitate it.

The soil on this side, is more sandstone than clay, so roots cannot penetrate real deep. I have to focus my efforts, on building deeper topsoil, by adding more mulching material on top. I'm hoping this struggling Lemon Grass will pull through.

I find Lemon Grass can survive on little water, but it does need a year to get it's roots down, first. So watering in the first summer, will see it through to surviving only on rainfall. It's a really fast grower, and the smell of lemon is wonderful, when you cut it as mulch.

Atriplex nummularia

This is the Old-Man Saltbush I was referring to earlier. It's another mainstay as material for mulching, and easy to propagate. It's much hardier than the Lemon Grass, requiring even less water. But it breaks down quicker, because it's less fibrous - at least if you prune it regularly. It can develop more woody material, if you let it grow naturally.

I find when I start pruning Old-Man Saltbush, I have to continue doing so. As it will get top heavy and fall over. When left to grow naturally however, the branches will cross one another, and hold up the plant.

Old-Man Saltbush is used as a fodder plant for ruminants too - although it's recommended as an additional food source, rather than the only one provided. As too much is not beneficial either.

Lemon Scented - Pelargonium citronellum

Another plant I use for chop and drop material, which can survive in this area, is the Lemon scented Pelargonium. But any variety of Pelargonium will do.

I also have an Oak-Leaf Pelargonium, and two flowering varieties. But the Lemon Scented Pelargonium, is by far, the most vigorous grower. Which makes it good for mulching material. It's really easy to propagate as well.

This mulching plant, breaks down the quickest of all, so it's best to grow this plant en mass. A plant or two, won't last very long, once the mulch is on the ground. Especially during summer.

Rosemarinus Officinalis

The common rosemary bush, is another survivor, in this area. I grow it more for bee food, and as seasoning for roast. It doesn't grow very quickly to be a mulching plant, but when I do give an annual haircut, I mulch the ground around it. The branches, take a long time to break down, and it's the only care this shrub will get.

It survives on natural rainfall, otherwise. So if you're looking for a die hard, bee-food shrub, you can't go past the common rosemary. This is growing in clay, so you know it's got to be tough. You've got to have some plants which aren't cut back to the ground, to make the area still look lush.

Broken down

This is an area I mulched previously, with a mixture of the Pelargonium and wood material, from a native plant which died. You can see the Pelargonium has all but disappeared, and the woody material is left behind. In my experience, it's good to mix up your mulching materials. Have one that breaks down quickly, but also have woody material.

Otherwise you end up with the above, bare patches. I relied too heavily on the Pelargonium, and now I have exposed soil. This is why I need more mulching plants. I don't have enough to go around yet.

But as I make progress in this area, it has improved, incrementally. The more I increase my chop and drop plants, the better this area is getting.

Coffee Grounds, around a Jade Plant

My strategy has been, to grow as much mulching material as we can, and propagate more. But failing to have enough growing on site, it helps if you can bring other forms of mulching material in.

Considering it's a waste resource at my husband's work, we use a lot of spent coffee grounds. It's relatively clean, grows healthy bacteria when it's kept moist, and just adds another layer of "something", that otherwise wouldn't be there.

We've tried free horse manure, collected from other properties, but it brought a lot of running weed grasses with it. So we don't do that any more. Thankfully, we have the humble weed, as yet another prolific resource, I'm constantly using as mulch.

April 2017

Take this healthy patch of weeds, for example, happily growing away. They're right where I need them to be. Populating an old vegetable bed, we've always had problems with. We had to improve the soil, in a major way to get anything edible to grow.

I'll share the details about that project, in another post, but it's a terrific example of how I use what nature has already provided, to mulch the ground.

April 2017

I pulled all those grasses and weeds, set them aside, and after amending the bed, put them back on top, as a thick layer of mulch.

Why buy mulch, when my land is already producing an abundance of foliage, I have to do something with anyway? Even if it's not particularly uniform, and contains seeds, it just provides another generation of mulch I can pull as mulch, later on.

June 2017

The above photo, has given a month for the grass to dry out. It's applied thickly, suppressing weeds for the most part, and more importantly, keeping moisture in the soil.

In this new garden bed, I've had to remember it's important to plant mulch plants, along with edibles - because mulch eventually breaks down, and needs replacing.

 Edibles

Next to the Paw-Paw tree, in this new bed, I've planted Queensland Arrowroot. It grows from a tough tuber, so it can handle periods without moisture, very well. I've used some of it's foliage already, to mulch the Paw-Paw.

It propagates easily, by dividing the tubers which multiply underground. I'm working on building up my number of clumps, by spreading them around the yard.

Arrowroot

The Queensland Arrowroot (Canna Edulis) has very attractive foliage, and I use it to shade annuals in my garden bed too. Which is where this particular clump, is located. So it's not just a mulch plant - it's a shade and windbreak structure as well. Interesting fact: the tubers of this variety, are edible as well.

I haven't multiplied mine enough, to be able to eat them. The tubers are more valuable, as propagation material. I want plenty of mulch material, ready to drop - so the goal is to increase the number of chop and drop plants, before I experiment with eating.

 Yellow King Humbert

I've also used the regular flowering, Canna Lily (non edible) as mulch too. It's extremely hardy, probably more so than the Queensland Arrowroot. Plus it has the advantage of being able to spread, by seed as well. 

The flowering Canna Lily, puts a lot of energy into flowering though, at the expense of foliage. So it's not as plentiful as the Queensland Arrowroot, as a mulching material. But it makes up for it, by spreading seed readily. Once you put a clump in, you'll always have more popping up somewhere.

Which just proves, having multiple varieties of plants growing for mulch, covers a lot of bases. If you only stick with one or two varieties, your options are more limited.

Chrysopogon zizanioides

Another plant, I would love to have more experience with, is Vetiver Grass. I've managed to keep it alive in pots, so I can multiply them - but in the field, is proving hard to establish a clump. I suspect it's a lack of water during establishment, because I don't always have the water to spare.

Once Vetiver Grass, gets it's tenacious roots down, however (some have been found to go down, 3 metres) it will be a reliable supply of mulching material. I'm hoping my latest plantings (above) do well. These are planted on the edge of a swale, near the mulberry tree. They survived the heatwave, so let's hope if the frost nips them, they'll come back.

I've read Vetiver is sensitive to shade, so I only have to worry about that during winter, when the sun drops behind the trees. But so far, so good. It seems to be getting enough sun.

Bamboo

What doesn't mind the shade of the mulberry, and is actually planted under it's canopy, is bamboo. Can you notice it, amongst all that grass? Some gardening advice, recommends removing completing plants, such as grass and weeds, from establishing plants, in order for them to grow.

That advice doesn't work in my location, however. As establishing plants are more in danger of dying from a lack of moisture, than competing plants. It might take them longer to grow with competition, but all those other plants are providing a means to cover the soil, and retain moisture.

This is the Multiplex variety of bamboo (Bambusa Multiplex) which grows up to 5 metres tall. Mine won't make it that high though, as it will be periodically slashed for mulching the mulberry and swale. I have a row of 3 bamboo (along with the Vetiver Grass) to help in that endeavour.

Artemisia absinthium (Wormwood)

An underrated candidate for mulching material, is the humble Wormwood. This herbaceous shrub, grows super fast, and actually benefits from regular pruning.

It's a lot like Lavender and Rosemary - if not trimmed regularly, it grows too woody and dies. But it's a true survivor and easily propagates. A lot of these scented, plants I place near the chicken coops to grow as well. As it deters insects. Maybe not completely, but it helps.

Native mat-rush or basket grass

There are many more plants I've used, which I've failed to mention too. Like Lomandra Longifolia (above) and Dianella Revoluta, which is a flax lily. But they are more slower growing, requiring a trim every two years - so cannot be relied upon, regularly. I also use Pigeon Pea, Acacia and Leucaena trees, for woody materials, as well.

I have a fun, follow-up post, recounting the growth of several plants, I've kept alive over the years, due to mulching with what grows on our land.

To summarise briefly though:

• Choose a variety of mulching plants, that will grow in extremes

• Plant en mass and chop regularly

• Grow enough, to always keep your soil covered

• Use pulled weeds, grass, and imported (clean) waste products, before buying mulch in. This will save A LOT of money.

Do you have a favourite mulching plant, which features in your garden? 

Weeds as feed

Last Spring, I received a request to post about the weeds I feed my chickens. I already fed most of them to the chickens, by that point, but intended to post about it, when a new flush of weeds made an appearance. So here I am, finally writing that post about the free weeds I feed my chickens.

Chickweed

The most prolific weeds I feed them, would have to be chickweed (aptly named, of course). It only makes an appearance when there's moisture and the temperatures are low. The higher temps will send it to flower and escalate it's decline. Which doesn't make them as palatable to the chickens. Although, they'll still eat them, if its the only greens they have access to.

Chickweed will die off in the hotter months (late Spring to early Autumn) so while its prolific, its also temporary. I grab swathes of it, by the handful, and throw them into the coop.

Dandelion

Good old dandelion is a tasty treat too. It prefers the same conditions as chickweed, but is more palatable than chickweed, after setting flower. I pluck individual leafs where I can, and the chickens will break pieces off by shaking it in their beaks. Or they'll pull it apart between each other, when there's a tussle for ownership.

While dandelion will have a longer growing season than chickweed, it's not as prolific. I find my numbers of self-seeding dandelions are reducing every year, as I improve the soil. Dandelions love compacted soil, and are nature's tillers, with their large tap roots.

Milk thistle - Prickly Lettuce

If there was candy for chickens, this would be it. Milk thistle, not to be confused with the Scottish thistle, with large purple flowers. I call it milk thistle, since that's what my grandfather introduced to me, on his farm. He said the milky-white sap was a great cure for warts, and it was. In terms of chicken food, this is their absolute favourite. No wonder, as it's the closest relative of the cultivated lettuce.

More so than the dandelions, however, I've noticed they are becoming rarer in the garden. That's because the kangaroos and hares all think its herbivore candy too. Their favourite stage to eat them down, are young, like the image above. I'll pull the whole lot up by the roots, preferably when its bigger than in the image. The chickens peck at the leafs, and they break apart easily. They do prefer milk thistle before it flowers, but will still eat it, after it has.

Ribwort

The next weeds are a little more bitter, so the chickens will eat less. But I still pop them in, because its medicinal and adds variety. The above is Ribwort Plantain. Bitter weeds can help stave off worms and other nasties which can sometimes enter their stomachs. They just don't need a lot of it though. So an occasional food, not a daily one.

I pull the whole lot up by the roots, and throw into their coop. It makes it easier for the chickens to pull apart, when there's more mass.

Dock

Another of the bitter weeds I feed them occasionally, is dock. It looks a little like horseradish, and is often confused with it. Dock is a relative of the buckwheat family though.

Like ribwort, the leafs are tougher and bitter, so chickens won't delight on them as much. I notice the native herbivores will eat these down too, if the grass isn't growing. So its not really a weed I can rely on, most of the time. It's best eaten when young. Not easy to pull up by the roots, so I will pluck several leaves and give them to the chickens with a bunch of other weeds at the same time.

Cobbler's pegs - Farmer's friends

What I feed the chickens the most, because its prolific nearly all year round (and isn't too bitter) is good, old-fashioned cobbler's pegs. Also known as farmer's friends. I can feed them young and tender, like the swathe of new ones emerging, in the image above. Or I can pick them when they're bigger, and have gone to flower. They're very easy to pull up from the soil.

Flowering Cobbler's pegs

This image, is the cobbler's pegs, most people are familiar with. They have tiny yellow flowers, which turn into black, sticky seeds, that catch on your clothes as you brush past. I don't know why they're called "farmer's friends", but I'd have to say, they're a popular source of free feed, I can pretty much rely on throughout the season. So they're kind of like a friend.

When everything else has bitten the proverbial dust, I can be certain to find these somewhere in the garden. The only annoyance they really give me, is in autumn, when they've gotten away on me. I'll know it, as soon as every piece of clothing comes into the house, with scratchy seeds attached.

They annoy me, only because I could have turned them into eggs sooner. As I patiently pluck them out of my clothes, I think of attacking them better next year, to feed my hungry egg makers. I know I'll never eradicate these weeds, and I won't be poisoning them, so relegated to egg making, it is.

More chickweed

There's only one weed I didn't get to take pictures of, because it takes longer to produce fruit. The chickens eat the fruits, not the leafs, as those are quite toxic. They are the black fruit of the deadly nightshade. One bush can produce a lot of fruit and it's not just the chickens that love them. Every native bird here, comes to rely on the self-seeding deadly nightshades.

I pluck the fruit and throw in handfuls. The chickens go nuts over them. Be sure to only pick the black berries however, as any with green, have higher doses of solanine present, and overdosing can be unpleasant. All the weeds I've outlined here however, are all naturally occurring. I haven't done anything, but glean the harvest. These weeds can also be fed to guinea pigs (except the deadly nightshade) who often get several helpings from me, a day.

So next time you think a weed is getting in your way, turn it into a free source of chicken food, instead. 

Warrigal Greens

Warrigal Greens

I've seen Warrigal Greens growing wild around my garden, and even read about the fact its edible. I ate it raw once, but couldn't understand what the fuss was all about. It tasted awful. Only recently I discovered Warrigal Greens contain toxic oxalates, and therefore should be blanched before being consumed.

No wonder I didn't like it, and the native animals don't seem to eat it raw either.

Leaves and stems

I've eaten it several times already, and it does taste a lot like spinach. I've eaten it just by itself, but today, I had it with some old favourites. I went outside in the rain, to pluck some Warrigal Greens from the garden.

Leaves removed from main stem

When I brought them inside, I plucked off the leaves, leaving the thick stems behind. As these can contain high amounts of oxalates, and you'll know it if you ever taste it - very bitter, even when cooked

Boil for 3 minutes

I then placed the leaves into boiling water for several minutes, before pouring them into a strainer, and then pouring boiling water from the kettle over the top. This rinses any residue of oxalates off.

You can use cold water to rinse, if you want to stop them cooking, but I wanted to eat mine warm.

Lunch time

They were accompanied by fried eggs, and my home-made fruit chutney. With a dash of salt and pepper, it made for a very fancy lunch - even for a weed.

I only noticed afterwards, this meal consists of a lot of ingredients, grown here. The eggs are from our chickens, the Warrigal Greens grew wild in the garden, and the chutney was made with my home grown bananas.

There were other inputs like grain for the chickens and the extras I put in the chutney, but as far as shopping from my larder is concerned, this meal is about 80% there.

Have you tried eating weeds as part of a meal before?